时光荏苒，转眼小编已是入职3年多的成熟职场人了。和当年不知如何挑选商务正装款式的小白相比，此刻的小编开始关注衣着的质感。

　　Time flies, and in the blink of an eye, I have become a mature professional who has been employed for over 3 years. Compared to the novices who didn't know how to choose business dress styles back then, now the editor is paying attention to the texture of clothing.

　　俗话说“衣不在多而在精”，又俗话说“穿贵不如穿对”，带着这些疑问，小编详细咨询了深耕定制西装行业多年的老师傅，总结出了下面关于商务正装选择的干货。

　　As the saying goes, "Clothes are not in abundance, but in refinement", and as the saying goes, "It's better to wear them right than to wear them expensive". With these questions in mind, the editor consulted a master who has been deeply involved in the custom suit industry for many years and summarized the following tips for choosing business formal attire.

　　Part 01. 成衣 or 定制？

　　Part 01. Ready to wear or customized?

　　所谓成衣（Ready to wear），是指直接可以买到的西装，款式固定，采用标准尺码。成衣剪裁要满足大众身材需求，很难买到100%贴合个人身材的。成衣从几百到上万不等，主要区别在于、面料、设计剪裁。

　　The so-called ready to wear refers to suits that can be purchased directly, with fixed styles and standard sizes. Ready to wear tailoring must first meet the needs of the general public's body shape, and it is difficult to buy one that fits 100% of an individual's body shape. The price of ready to wear clothing ranges from a few hundred to tens of thousands, with the main differences being the brand, fabric, design, and cutting.

　　全定制（Bespoke）西装顾名思义是真正意义的一人一版，从设计、剪裁到面料选择都能满足个性化需求，自然、定制周期长，对做工要求也。一般好的全定制西装都是几千起步，面料、量体、做工等都会影响。

　　Bespoke suits, as the name suggests, are truly one-man suits that can meet personalized needs from design, cutting to fabric selection. They are naturally the most expensive, have a long customization cycle, and require the highest level of craftsmanship. Generally, a good fully customized suit starts at a few thousand yuan, and factors such as fabric, measurement, and workmanship can all affect the price.

　　在成衣和全定制之间还有一种叫半定制（MTM），即在固定样板基础上根据个人身材进行二次剪裁，虽然没有全定制可发挥空间大，但胜在性价比更高。

　　There is another type between ready to wear and full customization called semi customization (MTM), which involves secondary cutting based on individual body shape on a fixed template. Although it may not have as much room for creativity as full customization, it is more cost-effective.

　　在选择时需要综合考量预算、使用场合以及贴合度。

　　When making a choice, it is necessary to consider the budget, usage scenario, and fit comprehensively.

　　Part 02. 商务正装的面料选择

　　Part 02. Fabric Selection for Business Dress

　　西装面料有人造（聚酯纤维等）、天然（羊绒、羊毛、海马毛、真丝、亚麻、纯棉等）两大类。一套有质感西装天然面料，羊毛因为具有透气、抗皱、柔软舒适等特性，是常见的商务正装面料，通常高端西装都是含毛量95%以上。亚麻、纯棉等则多见于商务休闲装。

　　There are two main types of suit fabrics: synthetic (polyester fiber, etc.) and natural (cashmere, wool, seahorse hair, silk, linen, pure cotton, etc.). Natural fabrics are the preferred choice for a textured suit. Wool is the most common business suit fabric due to its breathable, wrinkle resistant, soft and comfortable properties. Typically, high-end suits have a wool content of over 95%. Flax, pure cotton, etc. are more commonly seen in business casual wear.

　　虽然纯聚酯纤维常见于一些低端西装，但也有不少中端商务正装会选择羊毛+聚酯纤维混纺，兼顾了羊毛的透气、抗皱和化纤的光感、耐磨、易打理。含毛量从30%到90%不等，与含毛量成正比，也是很好的性价比之选。

　　Although pure polyester fiber is commonly used in some low-end suits, there are also many mid-range business suits that choose a blend of wool and polyester fiber, which balances the breathability and wrinkle resistance of wool with the light sensitivity, wear resistance, and ease of care of synthetic fibers. The wool content ranges from 30% to 90%, and the price is proportional to the wool content, making it a great cost-effective choice.

　　Part 03. 羊毛面料怎么选

　　Part 03. How to choose wool fabric

　　根据工艺不同，羊毛面料又可以分为羊毛精纺和羊毛粗纺两大类，其中羊毛精纺质地轻薄常用于春秋西装，粗纺质地厚重是秋冬西装。

　　According to different processes, wool fabrics can be divided into two categories: wool fine spinning and wool coarse spinning. Among them, wool fine spinning with a light and thin texture is commonly used in spring and autumn suits, while coarse spinning with a thick and heavy texture is the preferred choice for autumn and winter suits.

　　在选择西装时我们还会看到一个术语——支数，是羊毛面料细腻和柔软程度的参数，支数越高面料越细腻柔软，一般商务正装面料支数在110-130之间。需要注意的是商务正装面料支数的选择并不是越高越好，超过150支的面料会非常脆弱易皱，不易打理。

　　When choosing a suit, we also see a term - count, which is a parameter of the fineness and softness of wool fabric. The higher the count, the finer and softer the fabric. Generally, the count of business formal fabrics is between 110-130. It should be noted that the choice of fabric count for business formal wear is not necessarily better, as fabrics with more than 150 counts are very fragile and prone to wrinkling, making them difficult to maintain.

　　面料支数相同的情况下还应该关注克重，即每平米面料的重量。克重越高，面料更饱满和挺拔。通常春夏季款克重在200-240g，秋冬300g以上，如果需要一套四季通用的商务正装，260-280g。

　　When the fabric count is the same, attention should also be paid to the weight per square meter of fabric. The higher the weight, the fuller and more upright the fabric. Usually, the weight of spring and summer styles is 200-240g, and autumn and winter styles are over 300g. If you need a set of business suits that are suitable for all seasons, we recommend 260-280g.

　　在支数、克重相同的情况下，影响面料好坏的因素还有羊毛产地、织造工艺。的羊毛主要来自于澳洲、新西兰的美丽诺（mereno）绵羊，如果预算足够可选择英国、意大利面料，这也是市面上高端西装的选择；追求性价比的话也可以选择国产或者韩国羊毛面料。

　　In the case of the same count and weight, the factors that affect the quality of the fabric include the origin of the wool and the weaving process. The top wool mainly comes from Merino sheep in Australia and New Zealand. If the budget is sufficient, you can choose British and Italian fabric brands, which are also the choices for high-end suits on the market; If you pursue cost-effectiveness, you can also choose domestic or Korean wool fabrics.

　　此外，还可以根据个人喜好、穿着场合选择羊毛织造纹理。纯色西装是通用的，是大部分人套商务正装的选择；更进一步追求个性化，还有窗格、格林格、鸟眼、千鸟格、鲨鱼纹、鱼骨纹、条纹、粉笔条纹的可以选择。

　　In addition, wool weaving textures can be selected according to personal preferences and wearing occasions. Solid color suits are versatile and the first choice for most people's business attire; Going further in pursuit of personalization, there are also options to choose from, such as window frames, green grids, bird eyes, thousand bird grids, shark patterns, fishbone patterns, stripes, and chalk stripes.

　　在行业内有个说法“面料是西装的灵魂”，不仅直接影响西装的色彩、造型，选对面料还可以更好地诠释西装的风格，让人穿上如有加持。

　　There is a saying in the industry that 'fabric is the soul of a suit', which not only directly affects the color and shape of the suit, but also allows people to better interpret the style of the suit by choosing the right fabric, giving it a sense of blessing when worn.

　　商务正装面料的介绍就到这里了，希望大家都能如愿选到自己的职场“战衣”。

　　That's all for the introduction of business formal fabrics. I hope everyone can choose their own workplace "battle clothes" as they wish.

　　本文由 济南工作服  友情奉献.更多有关的知识请点击  http://www.ymsfs.com/   真诚的态度.为您提供为的服务.更多有关的知识我们将会陆续向大家奉献.敬请期待.　　时光荏苒，转眼小编已是入职3年多的成熟职场人了。和当年不知如何挑选商务正装款式的小白相比，此刻的小编开始关注衣着的质感。

　　This article is a friendly contribution from Jinan workwear For more related knowledge, please click http://www.ymsfs.com/ Sincere attitude To provide you with comprehensive services We will gradually contribute more relevant knowledge to everyone Coming soon. Time flies, and in the blink of an eye, I have become a mature professional who has been employed for over 3 years. Compared to the novices who didn't know how to choose business dress styles back then, now the editor is paying attention to the texture of clothing.

　　俗话说“衣不在多而在精”，又俗话说“穿贵不如穿对”，带着这些疑问，小编详细咨询了深耕定制西装行业多年的老师傅，总结出了下面关于商务正装选择的干货。

　　As the saying goes, "Clothes are not in abundance, but in refinement", and as the saying goes, "It's better to wear them right than to wear them expensive". With these questions in mind, the editor consulted a master who has been deeply involved in the custom suit industry for many years and summarized the following tips for choosing business formal attire.

　　Part 01. 成衣 or 定制？

　　Part 01. Ready to wear or customized?

　　所谓成衣（Ready to wear），是指直接可以买到的西装，款式固定，采用标准尺码。成衣剪裁要满足大众身材需求，很难买到100%贴合个人身材的。成衣从几百到上万不等，主要区别在于、面料、设计剪裁。

　　The so-called ready to wear refers to suits that can be purchased directly, with fixed styles and standard sizes. Ready to wear tailoring must first meet the needs of the general public's body shape, and it is difficult to buy one that fits 100% of an individual's body shape. The price of ready to wear clothing ranges from a few hundred to tens of thousands, with the main differences being the brand, fabric, design, and cutting.

　　全定制（Bespoke）西装顾名思义是真正意义的一人一版，从设计、剪裁到面料选择都能满足个性化需求，自然、定制周期长，对做工要求也。一般好的全定制西装都是几千起步，面料、量体、做工等都会影响。

　　Bespoke suits, as the name suggests, are truly one-man suits that can meet personalized needs from design, cutting to fabric selection. They are naturally the most expensive, have a long customization cycle, and require the highest level of craftsmanship. Generally, a good fully customized suit starts at a few thousand yuan, and factors such as fabric, measurement, and workmanship can all affect the price.

　　在成衣和全定制之间还有一种叫半定制（MTM），即在固定样板基础上根据个人身材进行二次剪裁，虽然没有全定制可发挥空间大，但胜在性价比更高。

　　There is another type between ready to wear and full customization called semi customization (MTM), which involves secondary cutting based on individual body shape on a fixed template. Although it may not have as much room for creativity as full customization, it is more cost-effective.

　　在选择时需要综合考量预算、使用场合以及贴合度。

　　When making a choice, it is necessary to consider the budget, usage scenario, and fit comprehensively.

　　Part 02. 商务正装的面料选择

　　Part 02. Fabric Selection for Business Dress

　　西装面料有人造（聚酯纤维等）、天然（羊绒、羊毛、海马毛、真丝、亚麻、纯棉等）两大类。一套有质感西装天然面料，羊毛因为具有透气、抗皱、柔软舒适等特性，是常见的商务正装面料，通常高端西装都是含毛量95%以上。亚麻、纯棉等则多见于商务休闲装。

　　There are two main types of suit fabrics: synthetic (polyester fiber, etc.) and natural (cashmere, wool, seahorse hair, silk, linen, pure cotton, etc.). Natural fabrics are the preferred choice for a textured suit. Wool is the most common business suit fabric due to its breathable, wrinkle resistant, soft and comfortable properties. Typically, high-end suits have a wool content of over 95%. Flax, pure cotton, etc. are more commonly seen in business casual wear.

　　虽然纯聚酯纤维常见于一些低端西装，但也有不少中端商务正装会选择羊毛+聚酯纤维混纺，兼顾了羊毛的透气、抗皱和化纤的光感、耐磨、易打理。含毛量从30%到90%不等，与含毛量成正比，也是很好的性价比之选。

　　Although pure polyester fiber is commonly used in some low-end suits, there are also many mid-range business suits that choose a blend of wool and polyester fiber, which balances the breathability and wrinkle resistance of wool with the light sensitivity, wear resistance, and ease of care of synthetic fibers. The wool content ranges from 30% to 90%, and the price is proportional to the wool content, making it a great cost-effective choice.

　　Part 03. 羊毛面料怎么选

　　Part 03. How to choose wool fabric

　　根据工艺不同，羊毛面料又可以分为羊毛精纺和羊毛粗纺两大类，其中羊毛精纺质地轻薄常用于春秋西装，粗纺质地厚重是秋冬西装。

　　According to different processes, wool fabrics can be divided into two categories: wool fine spinning and wool coarse spinning. Among them, wool fine spinning with a light and thin texture is commonly used in spring and autumn suits, while coarse spinning with a thick and heavy texture is the preferred choice for autumn and winter suits.

　　在选择西装时我们还会看到一个术语——支数，是羊毛面料细腻和柔软程度的参数，支数越高面料越细腻柔软，一般商务正装面料支数在110-130之间。需要注意的是商务正装面料支数的选择并不是越高越好，超过150支的面料会非常脆弱易皱，不易打理。

　　When choosing a suit, we also see a term - count, which is a parameter of the fineness and softness of wool fabric. The higher the count, the finer and softer the fabric. Generally, the count of business formal fabrics is between 110-130. It should be noted that the choice of fabric count for business formal wear is not necessarily better, as fabrics with more than 150 counts are very fragile and prone to wrinkling, making them difficult to maintain.

　　面料支数相同的情况下还应该关注克重，即每平米面料的重量。克重越高，面料更饱满和挺拔。通常春夏季款克重在200-240g，秋冬300g以上，如果需要一套四季通用的商务正装，260-280g。

　　When the fabric count is the same, attention should also be paid to the weight per square meter of fabric. The higher the weight, the fuller and more upright the fabric. Usually, the weight of spring and summer styles is 200-240g, and autumn and winter styles are over 300g. If you need a set of business suits that are suitable for all seasons, we recommend 260-280g.

　　在支数、克重相同的情况下，影响面料好坏的因素还有羊毛产地、织造工艺。的羊毛主要来自于澳洲、新西兰的美丽诺（mereno）绵羊，如果预算足够可选择英国、意大利面料，这也是市面上高端西装的选择；追求性价比的话也可以选择国产或者韩国羊毛面料。

　　In the case of the same count and weight, the factors that affect the quality of the fabric include the origin of the wool and the weaving process. The top wool mainly comes from Merino sheep in Australia and New Zealand. If the budget is sufficient, you can choose British and Italian fabric brands, which are also the choices for high-end suits on the market; If you pursue cost-effectiveness, you can also choose domestic or Korean wool fabrics.

　　此外，还可以根据个人喜好、穿着场合选择羊毛织造纹理。纯色西装是通用的，是大部分人套商务正装的选择；更进一步追求个性化，还有窗格、格林格、鸟眼、千鸟格、鲨鱼纹、鱼骨纹、条纹、粉笔条纹的可以选择。

　　In addition, wool weaving textures can be selected according to personal preferences and wearing occasions. Solid color suits are versatile and the first choice for most people's business attire; Going further in pursuit of personalization, there are also options to choose from, such as window frames, green grids, bird eyes, thousand bird grids, shark patterns, fishbone patterns, stripes, and chalk stripes.

　　在行业内有个说法“面料是西装的灵魂”，不仅直接影响西装的色彩、造型，选对面料还可以更好地诠释西装的风格，让人穿上如有加持。

　　There is a saying in the industry that 'fabric is the soul of a suit', which not only directly affects the color and shape of the suit, but also allows people to better interpret the style of the suit by choosing the right fabric, giving it a sense of blessing when worn.

　　商务正装面料的介绍就到这里了，希望大家都能如愿选到自己的职场“战衣”。

　　That's all for the introduction of business formal fabrics. I hope everyone can choose their own workplace "battle clothes" as they wish.

　　本文由 济南工作服  友情奉献.更多有关的知识请点击  http://www.ymsfs.com/   真诚的态度.为您提供为的服务.更多有关的知识我们将会陆续向大家奉献.敬请期待.

　　This article is a friendly contribution from Jinan workwear For more related knowledge, please click http://www.ymsfs.com/ Sincere attitude To provide you with comprehensive services We will gradually contribute more relevant knowledge to everyone Coming soon.